The Long Way Down, Up and Around

Sunday, February 13, 2011

6 degrees of separation

It´s true.

Ran into an American couple at a hostal yesterday - they work on movies. Good chance their circle overlaps with Leigh's. And the guy is doing a NOLS course this winter.

And what are the odds that, in a NOLS group of 13 students, there are Yalies and UPenn alumn on the course? And someone who lives in Cambridge Mass? And someone who grew up in the same town as you (well, almost, Libertyville - but close). And one of the instructors went to college in New Haven?

Ushuaia

Ver mapa más grande

Huge casino in the middle of the town. Don´t go to Foxwoods - come to Ushuaia!

Puerto Montt

I had the honor of passing through the city that Lonely Planet describes as ¨a giant dive bar¨.

And when Lonely Planet calls something a dive, it catches your attention.

Because it's situated at the very end of Chile's main valley, almost every person, animal or piece of merchandise that goes to or from Chilean Patagonia goes through Puerto Montt. It's a city of mechanics, sailors and truck drivers. People with character and tough hands. Puerto Montt reflects that. It's gritty, but not down. If Rocky was Chilean, he would be from Puerto Montt.

Situated like Vancouver...

...with all the charm of Philadelphia.

Patagonian wool

Fisherman.

And Patagonian cheese.

Saturday, February 12, 2011

Patagonia: More Scenery

One of the best part of being in the mountains is the views you get of other mountains.

Facing west, sunset along the Cordillera Salto. The river we crossed is at the base of those mountains.

View from the early days of the trip.

West, towards the Northern Icefields.

Patagonia... mountain range after mountain range. Each of the three ridges here is a separate cordillera, or range.

Crystal clear night - a real treat in Patagonia.

And the sky.

Super long exposure sunset with the stars visible.

One of many jagged peaks around San Lorenzo.

Cordillera Salto with typical Patagonian weather.

The tortured face of the glacier.

Camping in the shadow of the glacier.

Another peak of Monte San Lorenzo through the clouds.

Our tent and Monte San Lorenzo reflected in glacial meltwater.

Over the glacier and towards the Pacific, with weather rolling in.

And a final sunset over the NOLS campo near Coyhaique.

Expedition Life: Camp Life

Early days - still below the treeline.

Conveniently located mate stand. Didn´t have a thermos, so extra-warm sock around the canteen got the job done. A lot of time goes into finding rocks that resemble the things you are looking for - coffee tables, recliners, chairs... A little work is well worth the extra comfort and convenience.

We crossed this river the next day. Waist deep, about the most refreshing a person can do at 8AM.

Meeting for the daily debrief.

Week 2-3. Above the treeline in rocky terrain. The mountain range we crossed during the first two weeks is in the background.

Tent life.

Glaciers in the background.

OHO - Officially Hanging Out

Day 1 of Snow Camp - a perimeter established (so we know where we know there arent any crevasses), and a section of snow cordoned off that well use as a source of water.

Mike building and inspecting wind walls.

Mike and Danielle dancing in the kitchen.

Snow camp. Wind walls around the tents, all the gear in one spot. Snow can bury gear in less than hour - rule is that everything is either in your tent, your kitchen, or in your bag (assuming you know where your bag is when it storms).