Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Royal Paris

Was the American revolution inspired by Versailles?  A few of the founding fathers spent time in France, and it's likely they at least visited Versailles.  Were they disgusted by the way a royal family squandered the wealth of its people?  Were they inspired to built a nation in reaction to France (and England's) feudal traditions?

Versailles, and the Louvre, are among the most impressive architectural and artistic monuments in the world.  The scale and execution are breathtaking.  Every room is packed with masterpieces by the era's finest artists - examples of the most conspicuous form of consumption at the time.  

But with a little reflection the whole show is more than a little off-putting.  Here is a nominally Christian ruler of a nation, taxing his peasants more and more to build bigger and bigger monuments to himself.  Stop #111: Fresco of King Louis portrayed as Mars, conquering his enemies.  Stop #19:  Oil painting of King Louis portrayed as Mercury, advancing science.   Stop #45:  An enormous canal built in his backyard so King Louis could watch mock naval battles.  King Louis built the ultimate crib.

There are few places that can compare.  There are the Pyramids, built thousands of years before on the backs on slaves.  There are the thousands of terracotta warriors of China, commissioned by a Chinese emperor to fight wars in the afterlife, whose creators were buried along with the warriors to ensure that no successor could surpass his glory.  There are the Incas, whose rulers built elaborate palaces, covered in gold and gems to glorify themselves.  Those are also impressive.

But in defense of those other emperors, they did rule in the context of state religions that placed them at the center of the universe.  Imagine that for a second.  Louis, well, he was just another king ruling by divine rate among the many nation-states of Europe.  The root cause of his artistic achievements was an insatiable ego.  He did the opposite of what a ruler should do - rather than use his power to benefit his subjects, he used his subjects to glorify himself.  To really grasp Versailles you have to place it in the context of a poverty stricken country.  Per capita income in 17th century France was less than a dollar a day.  Imagine Versailles in the Republic of Congo.  Imagine the character of a person who could extract those kind of sacrifices from his people.

So, despite the beauty, my personal experience as Versailles was a melancholy one.  Let's raise a toast to megalomania and teach our children that it's national culture.




















Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Fast Food, Paris

It's hard to understand how the French aren't much, much fatter.

They certainly aren't skinny because of the food.  For folks who think that fast food is the real culprit when it comes to America's weight issues, well, try Paris' take out.  It has just as much salt, just as much fat, and is even more delicious.


Crepes with bananas and Nutella.  
Baguette, oversized sausage, and lots and lots of cheese.

France's version of ABP (ironic?)  The egg tart is a good hot alternative to salads and sandwiches.

French sandwiches usually like to combine small amounts of very flavorful ingredients.  Some of the staples include sun dried tomatoes, pine nuts and salty cold cuts.

The flavors and combinations here remind me of a place called Appleton's in Boston's South End.  Lots of fresh and flavorful ingredients on fresh baked bread.   Would be a delight to have these all over the US.

Here you have a choice of foie gras, smoked salmon with herb sauce, or prosciutto with feta.  

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Paris, partly cloudy

Paris is a place that is just begging to be photographed.  The architecture is uniformly beautiful and the residents are well dressed.  Everyone's experience is unique, and yet, getting a unique perspective of Paris through a camera lens feels like a challenge.  As one of the most photographed and iconic places in the world, a lot of shots can feel cliche.

Here's a perspective on Paris on a strangely partly cloudy day in June.  As a front rolled through the sun lit up buildings against a dark gray background.  Instead of trying to capture Paris' icons, I zoomed in on some of the details - shop windows, eclectic hotels and the diversity of street life.

If, on the other hand, you are interested in the quirks of daily life in Paris, David Lebovitz has a witty and entertaining blog here.   He also does a wonderful job covering the diversity of Paris' wonderful culinary scene.

Heavy cloud cover with a spot for the afternoon sun.  Paris.

Detail, gold on grey, Paris.

One of many monuments to the French Royalty, or Napolean.  Paris.

Near the main shopping drag.  Paris.

Colorful cafe scenes, Paris.

More cheerful cafe settings.  Paris.

Regal architecture.  The Westin, Paris.

A storefront that embodied pre-war French architecture.  Irresistible.  Along the main shopping street.  Paris.



Biberon & Sons.  Paris.



Innovative way of avoiding the stairs.  Paris.

A little bit of Motorcycle Diaries makes its way to the backside of a Parisian car.  Cheerful.  



Cute designer chocolates.  I love you... a little... a lot... with passion.  Paris.



A backlit Eiffel Tower.  Paris.



Street hawkers try to push their trinkets and souvenirs.  Paris.

Bridges over the Seine, as seen from the tour boat.  Paris.



Over the Seine.  Paris.


Over the Seine.  Paris.

Boat signage.  The Seine.  Paris.



Gothic architecture along the underside of a bridge.  Paris.



Late night in Paris.

Paris by night.

Fresh produce, and folks out on a weekend stroll.  Paris.


"Le Brunch" is making inroads into French culture.

Sorbonne University, Paris.


Lots of designer handbags in Paris.


Hotel California.  Paris.


More from Sorbonne.

A pretty radical transformation - rugged motorcycle guy to preppy Parisian tourist!