March 22 - 600km - Pucon to (just north of) Santiago

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If you´re a finance / econ nerd like me, Chile is interesting.  Chile has one major highway, and as you drive it, you can see almost the entire economy.

In Patagonia, it is salmon, sheep, tourism and wood.

The next fifth is cattle, milk and agriculture.

Then it´s timber.

Then wine.

And then Santiago - banks, corporate headquarters, universities, government and other services.

Then the rest is copper, beaches and tourism.

The highway is in excellent shape, and it´s a boring ride (thankfully).  But it is fascinating to see the scenery change, and the economy change, as you move from one region to another.

Disculple, no hay nafta (Sorry, there is no gas)

Remember the 70s, when the government instituted price controls on gasoline, and then there wasn´t enough to go around?  And it was rationed?  And people would wait in line for hours?  Because when prices are set artificially low, it doesn´t make any sense for people to sell things below cost?

Well, Argentina is still learning that lesson.  Price controls and then ¨blame the foreign oil companies for the total lack of fuel in your town¨

And there was literally *no* gas in the town I was staying.  Two gas stations, no gas.  Nada.  The next nearest station was either 80 or 150 miles away, depending on which direction you were travelling.

But there were two Petrobras fuel trucks around the corner from the gas station.  Why were they just sitting there?  Because the staff at the gas station was taking a siesta.  They would be back at 6.

Argentina, I like you.  You are a lot of fun.  Sometimes you are great and help me out when I need help.  But sometimes you let me down like this and I wonder if we should still be friends.

March 20

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Last few days have been a blur.

Drove out of the lonely wildness of Argentina back into the lush Andean foothills of Chile on the 19th.  Beautiful riding.  No sign from the maps that it would be so stunning.  The land is wide open shrubland with mountains rising to the horizon and volcanoes keeping sentry in the distance.  Cattle, horses and hawks complete the landscape.

Still lots of dirt - banged my leg on a stretch when the bike heaved to the right.  It´s fine but it was a good reminder to be very, very cautious out here.  

Caught my breath with an extra day in Pucon - a quirky town catering to backpackers and independent tourists.  With a huge, beautiful lake and lots of good day trips, a lot of folks make it a base for a week or so in Middle Chile.  

Caution - Deteriorated Bridge.  Thanks.

Big skies and lonely roads.

There are more hawks than people in this part of Argentina.

This volcano dominates the landscape at over 12,000 feet... no matter how far you drive it keeps an eye on you.

March 18

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Getting dirty.

Long day today.  Woke up to frost outside.  2 hours of very cold, fast, riding.  Then dirt, then hot desert sun towards the end of the day.

Home tonight is a village called Junin de Los Andes.  I have finally found my fantasy of a Latin American frontier town - the streets are mostly unpaved and cowboys on horseback patrol the streets.  It is hot and dusty.  It´s another one of those towns that feels run down when you drive past.  But, walk around and folks are optimistic and cheerful.  The internet cafe has new computers.   A new supermarket opened in town.  Dusty, but not down.

Tomorrow will be a shorter day, back into Chile towards the Ruta Panamerica to make some heavily miles to the north.

Fresh snow starting to fall this time of year.

Chilean cuisine

Cardiologists have nightmares about this stuff.

You have your choice of:

Bread

Meat

Mayo

Oil

Fruits and veggies include:

Potatoes

Guacamole

Ketchup

You can also make pizza with these ingredients, and there is pizza.  And sandwiches.  And lots of ice cream, cookies and cake.

Someone here mentioned that fruits and veggies are really expensive because it is all exported to the US and Europe... and Americans can afford to pay a lot more for winter greens than Chileans.  if it´s true, good for their economy, bad for their waistlines.

Yes, this is a hot dog smothered with guacamole and mayonnaise.  It is everywhere.

Ok, to be fair, this was in Argentina.
The French Fry Palace

Burger King dropped the veggies and added mayo and heavy bread to please local tastebuds.

A different take on the double bypass battleship.

Eggs are optional.

Fast Food King - their specialty is bread, stuffed with cheese, deep fried in lard, and served with mayo and mustard.  Texas, sorry, Chile might have one-upped you here.