The Long Way Down, Up and Around: March 17th

First day of the trip might have been the most exciting hours of motorcycle in a long time.

Day started with rain, countryside resembling Vermont. Climbed towards the border, hills turned to mountains and farms to a rainforest out of Jurassic Park. Deep green valley with towering mountain ridges on either side, huge ferns along the road, waterfalls cascading out of the ridges like those pictures you see of Hawaii.

Border crossing uneventful. Gained altitude, rain turned to light snow, visibility dropped but the road was good. Got a bit chilly over the pass into Argentina. Warmed up at the border, uneventful crossing, and then descended into a spectacular landscape. Reminded me of the Tetons, or maybe the Alps. Finally ended the day at Bariloche, landscape changed again on the last leg - dry with sweeping hills. Utah?

By pure coincidence, found a hotel run by a Polish immigrant (´Viktor´), who recommended a bbq spot run by ´´tony´´, who served a 14oz. ribeye and a glass of wine big enough to embarrass a BIG GULP.

Viktor's parents left Poland right after World War II, when the future with the Soviets didn't look so bright. He was born in Buenos Aires, and, having caught his parents restlessness, thought the future looked brighter in Bariloche than in Buenos Aires, so he moved there to open a hotel.

Bariloche is the hub for the region, Argentina´s version of Aspen or Vail. There are world class hotels and restaurants to complement all the outdoor activities and jaw dropping views.

While it's full of wonderful, often expensive, things, there seems to be an uneasy marriage between the heart of the economy - serving wealthy Argentinians and foreigners - and the gritty reality of life for its residents. Public services seem shoddy. There is some litter, and graffiti. And, just a few blocks off the main street, the roads are dirt and the homes look more like shacks. Tourism brings jobs - there´s no doubt about that - but it´s not hard to see how it could bring frustration, even resentment, as well.

But... maybe life would be better somewhere else. Viktor is thinking of selling the place and moving to Uruguay, where 'life is really nice for Argentinians'. Or maybe Poland? He hears it has really improved.

Argentina... a place to escape communism. And then 60 years later, Poland as a place to escape Argentina.