The Long Way Down, Up and Around: Florence

Florence, where Italy starts to really feel like Italy and centuries of wealth and influence are packed into a few city blocks downtown.

It was hot in Florence when we arrived. Not just any hot - so hot you walk around with sweat dripping down your neck, while you fan your face and wonder why you didn't stop at those beautiful beaches just north and, hell, how cool can a 20 foot tall marble statue be? Can it be worth the pain of walking blocks and blocks through Chinese tour groups just for that picture?

Well, maybe. That's actually a great reason to visit Florence some other time of the year - Spring would be nice, maybe even winter. You won't be able to sit in the cafes, but then again you probably won't be able to sit in the cafes in late July anyway. You'd rather be in a McDonald's with killer air con.

One of our favorite parts of Florence was our hotel, actually. I'm not much of a house-hunter-find-the-ideal-hotel kind of guy, but when a deal came on this cute little B&B on the outskirts of town (with parking, but also within walking distance of downtown), we went for it. It was charming, with a little garden out back, a great place to have a glass of chianti, talk excitedly with wild gesticulations, and wind down at the end of the day.

Which brings me to our second favorite experience in Florence - the restaurant our hotel recommended. It was another one of those hole-in-the-wall (the only place to eat in Italy, I've decided, after our 100% batting average with them). It was a family affair, with hearty, home cooked food and generous pours of wine. The Olive Garden may say you're family when you're there, but here, we really felt like family. Turned out the guy spent some time working construction in New York before coming back with a healthy amount saved, so he bought a place and got married. Loved his family too much to leave them for America. Now that, that is family values. We loved the place and went back for second helpings the next night.

What about the famous museums? Well, they're interesting, but unless you're a real art history expert its hard to truly appreciate the contents. The museums aren't in great shape - the AC was broken, the lighting is off, and a few exhibits were closed for renovations, and the lines are ridiculous. The statue of David is actually really cool - it's worth checking out regardless of your knowledge of art history. Or, better yet, study up on the Italian renaissance before you go and then take a knowledgeable guide with you.

Or, just head to a small Italian town and drown yourself in incredible home-cooked food, wine and hospitality. That's still our favorite part of Italy.